Holiday Greetings

For many native Hawaiians, the centerpiece of just about any New Year’s celebration is onaga, a fish that’s also known as ruby snapper or longtail red snapper. It’s served at everything from weddings to birthdays, but it’s especially popular at year-end celebrations—in part because it’s a symbol of good fortune. It’s prized for its light pink flesh, mild flavor, and its texture—all of which are considered just right for sashimi.

Onaga is one of the “deep seven” bottomfish—a culturally important group that includes six species of snapper and one species of grouper. All seven species are found throughout the Hawaiian Islands. A snapper known as ‘ōpakapaka is the most common, accounting for about half of the annual catch. Onaga ranks second.

Adult onaga generally are about two to two-and-a-half feet long and weigh up to about 18 pounds, although they can grow to twice that weight. The top half of the body is red or pink, while the underside is white. The fish are found above rocky sea floors throughout the tropical Pacific Ocean, usually at depths of no more than a thousand feet.            

Commercial fishing decimated many of the bottomfish stocks during the middle of the 20th century. Today, the bottomfish are protected by both state and federal regulations. Commercial fishers are limited to hook-and-sinker operations—no nets allowed. That’s helped the population rebound—ensuring happy New Year celebrations for years to come.